Tales from Mid Summer in West Virginia

This posting is especially for John A., K. go and get him.

The House Gets a Haircut

Oh Look, our house is looking a little ragged around the edges. It needs a haircut. We need to get a barber and his cutting shears.

Oh, Look, here is the Barber.

And here are his barber shears.

Time for him to get to work!

Well, its still a little ragged.

His shears can take care of that!

There now it's finished!

You see, Haircuts don't really hurt do they.

Doesn't the house look nice. And it didn't hurt at all!

(P.S. GrandMom has entered the digital age and these are shots from HER new digital camera.)

Lewisburg WV

Another Old Church --

Old Stone Presbyterian Church Lewisburg

In covering my mid-summer journeys in WV from a church perspective, we started off in 1786 with the Rehobeth Church in Monroe County near Union WV. In our last posting we went north to Frankford, and just outside Frankford, to the Gilboa Meeting House and then Frankford United Methodist Church. Today, we return to our scene of a few postings ago, Lewisburg, for the Old Stone Presbyterian Church of Lewisburg, built in 1796.

Old Stone church bills itself as ". . .the oldest church west of the Alleghanies that has remained in continuous use. . ." And indeed it is still well used. In Lewisburg, as in many Southern West Virginia Communities, the Presbyterian Church in the center part of town is "THE" church to belong to. If you want to be considered a "mover and a shaker" within your community you become Presbyterian.

In addition to dating back to the late 19th Century, Old Stone is also noted for the fact that in 1862, the graveyard just south of it, was the "front line" for the Battle of Lewisburg. After the Battle was over, many of the soldiers who were killed there, were buried there. A few years after the war, their bodies were re-interred and the Union soldiers moved to a "proper" United States Cemetery, and the Confederate Soldiers were placed in a mass grave on the hillside cemetery a few hundred yards to the west of the church's graveyard.

CORRECTION

A few of my faithful readers have called my attention to the fact that in an earlier blog I mis-identified a butterfly that GrandMom had captured in her camera's lense. And so, out of a sense of propriety, and because GrandMom also corrected me, I hereby state for all to know:

This is a Silvery Checkerspot (Chlosyne nycteis).

Well, at least someone out there is reading some of this.

Frankford WV

Gilboa-Frankford Church

After yesterday's diversion, occasioned by the bovine antics encountered the other day, we return to Southern West Virginia, and the Greenbrier Valley for another mid-summer day, actually 4 years worth of mid-summers days, at the first church I served out of Seminary, Frankford United Methodist Church.

As the banner above indicates, the congregation first organized as "Gilboa" and constructed a meeting house a little ways outside of town on a back road near the road to Anthony (it is a little hard to describe how to get there, but go out the Anthony road and make the first left and look for an overgrown spot of brushes on the left, that is where the Gilboa meeting house was).

In 1841, the congregation moved into the "Big City" of Frankford with its permanent spring (still flowing through the spring house on the left).

They constructed a handsome building out of homemade and fired brick. The structure was sturdy enough to survive the mis-use of it by soldiers during the prelude and aftermath of the Battle of Droop Mountain. During this time it was used as both a hospital and a stable.

After the Civil War was over, the building was in such dis-repair, and the people in the community so poor, they only met for school on an occassional basis for several years. They did not really get "going again" until the 1870's.

Since then they have continued to meet, as part of a circuit of 2-3-4-or even 5 churches at times! They haven't set the world afire a-la-Billy Graham, but they have kept the fire going.

Tales from Mid Summer in Southern West Virginia

The Bad Cow --

A Posting for My Grandson John A.

K. go get your son. Bring him here. Let him read this post.

John, you here?

Good. You see what is up above?

That's right it's a Cow. But not just any cow, a BAD Cow.

What does the Cow go?

That's right: MOOOOO. But not this cow, it goes: NYA NYA NYA

You see yesterday instead of staying in its pasture and eating all the nice grass that GrandMom and Pops provide for her, she, and all 20 of her herdmates decide to go off and explore the woods on the other part of our property. And would they return?

No. Bad Cow.

And Pops spends part of his day chasing them through the woods saying "The Grass is Green. It is sweet. Come eat!"

And this Bad Cow and all her Bad Cow buddies just run away.

Then GrandMom comes up to Pops and says: "Why there is more to life than Bad Cows! Much more. Why look, here is a Queen Anne's Lace!

"And here is another, and this one has a red ant on it! Aren't they more beautiful than that Bad Cow running through the forest with all of her friends?"

And Pops had to admit, well yes they are. But still, after all, cows that like the woods? He'd never heard of such a thing as that.

And then GrandMom spies a Daisy with a bee on it and says: "See look at that! Isn't that more interesting than a bunch of Bovines who are too stupid to know what is good for them?"

And Pops agrees, the flower and the insect do look nice together. But still, a Bad Cow, a Stupid Cow, running through the woods? Come on now, surely they can do better than that.

"Why look at these Asters," says GrandMom, aren't they something! And look, would you believe it, a Common Buckeye Butterfly is feeding on our flowers! Why it knows what is good to eat!"

And Pops agreed the butterfly did.

And finally, after a day of running through the forest, chomping on the weeds and being generally dis-satisfied with their lives, the Bad Cow and all her Bovine mates decide to come out and enjoy the grass again.

And Pops says "Good, I'm glad you came to your senses."

And the Bad Cow says: "Fooey."

Monroe County WV

Rehobeth Church -- Monroe County WV

Even though today's posting is from a visit in early spring of this year, because it fits in so well with the posting in Lewisburg, and will fit in well with the next stop posted, I have included our stop at the Rehobeth Church in what is now Monroe County West Virginia. The Rehobeth Church was founded in 1786 on land donated by Edward Keenan, a Roman Catholic. Rehobeth Church, however, at Mr. Keenan's request, became part of the new Methodist Episcopal Church formed in Baltimore in 1784.

There is a report that Bishop Francis Asbury dedicated the church upon its completion in 1786. However, other sources indicate that this probably was not so since Asbury's journals place him in New Jersey about the time the church was dedicated. (After all, this was before the age of air travel.)

Nevertheless, Asbury did visit this church 2 years later and conducted the first Ordination west of the Alleghenies, John Smith.

Further, the church claims that its 1786 completion date makes it the oldest Protestant Church west of the Alleghenies (though again, other groups, societies etc. will dispute this claim). Whatever the case, it is old, and Asbury called here several times on his periodic journies through this part of then-Western Virginia.

The structure that was constructed was a two story affair and segregated seating did occur. At first, however, the segregation was men in the balcony, women and children below. The reason for this separation was the prescence of threats from passing Native American War/Hunting parties. Rehobeth was near a path known in those days as "The Warrior's Path." This path, US Rt. 219 roughly follows its route, was used by War parties, and hunting parties as they moved from the north towards the south and Cherokee teritory.

The men gathered on the second floor, and had their weapons with them at all times. There were even holes in the wall so that they could stick their firearms outside and fire without exposing themselves to the return fire of the Native Americans.

After the Native American threat subsided, the early 1800's, the church seating became segregated along more "traditional" lines with the balcony reserved for the slaves, and the ground floor for the rest of the folk.

Rehobeth served as a meeting place for a congregation of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South into the early years of the 20th century. At that time it was closed. The structure itself remained, albeit in a great state of disrepair.

Finally, the structure was carefully dismantled, the logs tagged as they were removed, and then completely re-built with a more permanent type of chinking. Then an extra roof was erected above the old church to help protect it from future damage from the elements.

The inside of the building still has the original split log benches that were used by the early settlers. It is open for viewing daily, though it is best to call ahead. There is also a small museum near the church structure. It is operated by the Monroe County Historical Society. In addition to some church artifacts, such as a communion table used by Asbury in the Rehobeth Church, it also has a desplay of memorabilia related to the history of Monroe County from colonial times to the present.

Great Train Stations in North America: 4

Jersey City NJ -- Central of New Jersey

For many years this structure, originally built in 1889 to replace an earlier out-dated one, meant for many people, the beginning of not just a train trip, but a whole new life. This was the closest rail station to Ellis Island, the first destination for so many immigrants into the United States during the latter half of the 19th century. This station was so close, it could be seen from the north-facing windows of the facility.

As the first station after Ellis Island, and as a way to commute across the water to New York City, it was a busy station. In its heyday, 1890-1915 it saw 30,000 to 50,000 people and 300 trains a day! But, the stations fortunes began to wane and it was all but abandoned when the State of New Jersey took it over and made it the centerpiece for Liberty State Park. In this new role it became a Visitor's Center, and the place where the ferry to the Ellis Island Historical National Park docked in New Jersey.

But still it stands as a reminder, that some stations represent a new beginning, a radical break from the past.

Lewisburg WV

An Afternoon in Lewisburg WV

We took a break from our chores in mid-morning and went up to Lewisburg to see a few things we had never really stopped to view before. Our journey revolved around one building we had been by, and in, many times, the Greenbrier County Courthouse (above). It dates from 1837 with later additions. While it is not as spectacular as other county courthouses we have seen, still it is good looking. And while it is probably not the oldest in the country, it is still way up there.


Our first stop was at the General Andrew Lewis Park. The park area contains several spots that date back to the late Colonial, early Federal, part of our history.

Prominently situated against the hill right beneath the Courthouse, is the old 1785 Spring House(right). It was the prescence of this spring that first brought settlers into this area. Then known as Fort Union, or Fort Savannah, or Savannah or several other names depending upon who you talk to.

Up the hill away from the courthouse is a bronze marker noting that this area was the rendevous point for the Colonial Militia who gathered under General Andrew Lewis to begin their march to Pt. Pleasant (pictured below). This march which occurred in the fall of 1774 was part of an military affair known as "Lord Dunmore's War." This "War" is either considered to be the last desparate battle connected with the French and Indian War, or the first "war" of the Revolution. Naturally, the town of Point Pleasant WV has gotten Congress to say it is the first "battle of the Revolution." But that just shows how cock-eyed politicans can be. Anyway, the object of their march, the confluence of the Kanawha and Ohio Rivers is now Tu-Endie-Wei State Park.

The militia gathered (including some of GrandMom's ancestors) and they marched out west and defeated Chief Cornstalk. This victory by the militia should have resulted in a great celebration. Unfortunately, Lord Dunmore, then the Colonial Governor of Virginia, marched with a separate force by a more northerly route, and concluded a separate peace treaty with the Shawnee Tribes. This peace treaty did not set well with the Colonials, and convinced them that Great Britain was not a "friend."

Patrick Henry among others preyed upon this feeling of distrust towards both Great Britain and Lord Dunmore, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Also in the park is a building erected during the "second American War for Independence" also known as the War of 1812. It is called "The Barracks" and was used as a local storehouse for arms and ammunition for the settlers to use against the Native American Attacks they sure were coming. Thankfully, there was not much fighting in West Virginia during that conflict and so the building was not used much.

Great Train Stations in North America: 3

Cincinnati Union Terminal

Cincinnati Ohio

In 1900 Cincinnati OH had a problem similar to many cities of that era, too many train stations, 5 of them in all. This meant that travelers on the 7 different railroads which served the town, who needed to change trains often had a cross-town dash. Further, the many grade crossings caused much congestion. Finally, all of the stations were within the Ohio River floodplain. And in those days the Ohio often flooded.

Finally in 1927 work was begun on a new facility located in the west end of Cincinnati. The architectural firm of Fellheimer & Wagner won the commission and began work on this structure shortly after completing Buffalo NY's Central Terminal. It was to be one of the "high water marks" of the Art Deco style of architecture.

It opened in 1933 two weeks early because once again, the Ohio River was on the rampage and threatening to inundate the old stations. But despite the undeniable beauty of the building, it has never lived up to its initial expectations. In addition to the overall decline in passenger rail traffic which began in the 1930's, the city fathers and the railroads soon realized they had located the new station too far from downtown.

Today, the basement of the building is still an Amtrak stop for its tri-weekly Cardinal which calls in the wee hours of the morning. The rest of the building has become a children's museum.

Thus, though the building is beautiful beyond words, it stands almost as a testament to the old saying "Beauty is skin deep." It may be beautiful, but through the years it has not met the needs of the traveling public.

Great Train Stations in North America: 2

Ashland KY, Chesapeake and Ohio Passenger Station

This imposing structure was built in 1925 by the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway to serve not only the city of Ashland KY, but also as a way station for all major passenger trains traveling along its mainline. It also served as a terminous for local trains which left Ashland and traveled up the Big Sandy Valley and over towards a connection with the Clinchfield Railroad at Elkhorn KY.

But it was as a way station that it was probably best known. The major passenger trains heading west stopped here and were often "split-up" into 3 different sections, each headed a different direction, before resuming their journey. One section, normally the longest, continued out of Ashland toward Cincinnati OH. Here it would connect with the Indianapolis IN and Chicago IL-bound James Whitcomb Riley of the Big Four (or New York Central) line. A second section, would head north across the Ohio River for Columbus, & Toldeo OH, and ultimately Detroit MI. A third section would head due west over trackage now removed, and end in Louisville KY. Trains arriving from these three Western destinations were combined in Ashland before they headed East.

Given the importance of this station for the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, it is not surprising that it was located within the floodwall that the Army Corps of Engineers built to protect Ashland from Ohio River flooding. It was reached through a "WYE" connection with the mainline that ran along the Ohio River's edge, outside the floodwall.

Today, this station is no longer an active station. The tracks leading to it have been removed, and a local bank is now the owner and occupier. While Amtrak does stop at Ashland KY, it uses the old Chesapeke and Ohio freight station located just outside of the flood wall.

Yet in its time, the station pictured above was an important way-station on the C&O. And given that trains were consolidated and split up at this location, it was a station where you would be able to sit and reflect upon where you had been and where you were ultimately going, both on the train, and in life.

Tales from Mid Summer in West Virginia

Just Another Day in Greenbrier County

We spent the night in town because we were so grubby. The next morning we came back out. While "Pops" worked on cutting brush, "GrandMom" went off and took pictures of the flora and fauna of Greenbrier County in mid-July. Her results speak for themselves.

While she was taking her pictures, a Butterfly landed and stayed motionless for some time on a flower. We believe it is a Female Regal Fritillary. However, there is some question in our minds. According to Allen's book The Butterflies of West Virginia and Their Caterpillars, Regal Fritillaries are has been "rapidly disappearing" from West Virginia. There was a sighting reported in near-by Monroe County, but none in Greenbrier. Further, its habitat while similar to where Alice found the speciman, is not quite what we have at the farm. Nevertheless, the Butterfly was beautiful. So, enjoy.

Another Anniversary

For all of those regular readers of this blog (all 2 or 3), you may recall, this entire year (and part of next year) is the 40th Anniversary of my being called to active duty with the DC Air Guard in connection with the detention of the US spy ship the USS Pueblo by the People's Republic of Korea (AKA North Korea), at a spot approximately 15 miles from where the above shot was taken (Kangnung Beach in the Republic of Korea).

Well, as last you may recall, we were called to Active Duty on January 26th, 1968. Our unit proceeded to sit around our "home base," Andrews AFB MD, from then until the end of June. At that time the "powers that were" finally decided what to do with us. Consequently, on July 16 1968, I left my wife of 1 year and 3 months, my parents, and my siblings, on the tarmack at Andrews as I climbed aboard a flight that would eventually take me to Korea.

We were flying in a chartered jet. Following WWII The Military Air Transport Service had a large inventory of multi-engine transport aircraft. In part because of this inventory, we were able to prevail in the Berlin Blockade issue. But by the early 1960's that fleet was aging fast, and the jet airliner was new upon the scene. And the decision was made to "get the Air Force out of the airline business." Consequently, whenever there was to be a movement of a large group of GI's, it would be via chartered aircraft, flown by outfits that surely had names well known such as "Overseas National," "Flying Tigers" (okay, some of us who knew their WWII history had heard of that outfit), and the one that I remember most of all, because it brought me home, "Saturn World Airways." Anyway, we took our Overseas National charter out of Andrews, refueled at Elsworth AFB, Rapid City SD, and ended up at McChord AFB near Tacoma WA.





We arrived at McChord in the early evening in time to see the sun set over Mt. Rainier in the distance. We were told to sit around the terminal and try to sleep on our duffel bags because we would be called for our flight at about 4:30 AM (and we were). And so now we come to this newest anniversary:

The Shortest Day of My Life

At 5:30 AM on Thursday July 17, 1968, our plane took off from McChord. Actually, I am being charitable, it was more like "struggled to make it into the sky." It was a "Stretch 8" that is to say a DC 8 which had been lengthened and given more powerful engines so that it could haul more people and stuff farther. Every seat was filled with GI's, most of us Air National Guardsmen on their way to Korea, our 1 requisite duffle bag, probably some other freight, plus all the fuel it would need for the 8 hour flight to Tokyo. For those of us who worked on the flight line and knew how to read the runway markers, we nervously awaited the moment of rotation and were beginning to sweat it when we passed the 3/4ths mark on our take-off and still we were level. Finally at what seemed the last possible moment, the plane rotated, rolled a bit more, and as we looked out the window at our now climbing bird, we could clearly see the hash marks of the end of the runway outside our windows.

Nowadays, I say that "I flew across the pond," and yet I know full well, we did not really fly out across the Pacific. We took the Great Circle Route up and over Alaska, and then down towards Japan making sure to stay in International Airspace as we approached the Pacific Shore of the then USSR. I noted this several times on our trip to Alaska, 10 years ago (hark, another anniversary is upon us), when people would ask me if I had ever been to Alaska before. I would respond "Over, but not In Alaska."

As we got to Japan, we all saw Mt. Fuji in the distance, and the suburbs of Tokyo below us. We had flown 8 hours. Remember, we took off on July 17, 1968 as the sun was rising. We followed the rising sun across to Japan. We never saw darkness. And when we landed in Tokyo, it was 12 noon Friday July 18. Thus, I estimate that for me July 17, 1968 was approximately 9 hours and 30 minutes long. That is the shortest day I have had to date.

What had happened, of course, was that we had crossed the International Date Line in our flight. This is a line which has been drawn to determine where each day "starts" on our planet. It is all a very confusing thing to me, so I suggest you read Jules Verne's novel, Around the World in 80 Days. In the last chapter, the concept of travel around the world and how it changes your relation to the sun's striking the earth is discussed. And this being Jules Verne, this scientific fact becomes the main focus of the plot.

My only distinct memory of that flight and that "shortest" day was the fact that the only food they seemed to have on board was Roast Beef and Cheese Sandwiches, which they regularly passed out to us 6 times during this 8 hour flight. Now the first time or two, we all ate them and thought they were not bad, as airline food went (then). But by the 5th time, we were starting to get almost "surely" about the whole thing. And the Stewardesses we had on-board, undoubtedly taking this job because the ones with the "glamor outfits" such as United, American, and Pan Am, were unattainable for them, did not know how to handle this (which seemed strange to me then and now, because I am sure we were not the first group of GI's to react in that way). At any rate, that is what I remember about that, the shortest day of my life. And, by the way, since that time, I have never eaten a Roast Beef and Cheese sandwich, so don't even ask (M&C, bless you I know you'all won't).

Tokyo was only a re-fueling stop for us, as our final destination was Korea. We took off a few hours after landing a Yakota AB, and flew on to Kimpo AB outside of Seoul Republic of Korea . From there we were bused to Osan AB our final destination. There we would experience the wonders of trying to keep planes up in the air that were older than we were, with very little support, particularly from the system, since everyone knew the "main effort" was Viet Nam.