Florence Oregon

Journey to a Land of Water Wind and Fire

Part B: The Oregon Coast II b

Not Always a Great Notion

We left the Little Wayside of Horrors behind us, and headed south for Florence and lunch. Florence is an "old" town, that is to say, it does not have the modernistic minimalism aspect which is combined with a barely suppressed but redolent McDonaldism, as is found in many other coastal towns, for example Reedsport. Rather Florence has a slightly older look to its buildings which I, not being any kind of "professional critic," normally refer to as early 20th Century American beach resort architecture.



We had a chance, while stopped, to finally get a good look at the fancy bridge across the Suislaw River at Florence. This is one of many bridges found on the Oregon Coast which date from the 1930's Public Works Administration (PWA) of the New Deal. These bridges were all designed by Conde McCullough. While some on these Oregon Coast "monuments" have been replaced with more modern structures, many have not. The one at Florence is one that has not been replaced.



Of course, while viewing the bridge, we also took time to admire the Suislaw River and its scenery. But we didn't do this for long, for we were intent on one thing: LUNCH! And not just any Lunch would do.



Several of the Oregon Coast Guidebooks had recommended stopping at a restaurant called Mo's and having some of the establishment's Clam Chowder. Mo's (Mo is a female) started with an establishment in Newport, up the coast, and has now opened several locations including this one at Florence.



Apparently, what really put Mo's on the "Culinary Landscape" of the Northwest was an encounter with that manufacture of many American dreams, Hollywood. Local boy Ken Kesey (he was born in Colorado but grew up in Eugene OR) had written a book about a family of Oregon Loggers and called it "Sometimes a Great Notion." When Hollywood got ahold of it, the late Paul Newman directed himself, Henry Fonda, Lee Remick, . . . and a cast of thousands in a film version, which is now called "Sometimes a Great Notion" but was originally released as "Never Give and Inch!" They did their location footage on the Oregon Coast. While in the area, apparently Newman, Fonda, and several other cast members took a liking to Mo's and to her Clam Chowder.


And so, we had Clam Chowder. Now please understand, I am conscious of two facts as I make this post:
1. Paul Newman was considered a good judge of taste, as evidenced by his line of food products.
2. He died just a few days ago.
Nevertheless, regardless of the fear and trembling that is shaking my body even now as this is being composed, I must in all honesty report, I did NOT think Mo's Clam Chowder was all that great. To be exact, I would rate it somewhat below what I can get at General Seafood in Charleston WV. A few days later, I had a chance to bring the subject up with my nephew whom we were visiting, J.O. Without expressing my preference first, I asked him for his opinion about Mo's chowder. He quickly said he did not like it: "Too Potatoey." Exactly, that is what I had tasted, too much Potatoes and not enough Clam.


I must also confess that I have been to Boston MA and while there had Clam Chowder at Faneuil Hall Marketplace and several stand alone eateries. I also had Clam Chowder at a place along the waterfront in Portland MAINE. Now those were real Clam Chowders. Much better than Mo's, and much better than General Seafood of Charleston WV (after all, they admit it, theirs comes from a commerically prepared mixture).


So what was it about the place that caused all the attention and fame? In other words, "Why did they come?" Was it the Ambiance? Perhaps a chance to feel as if they were no longer "Hollywood Stars" but rather just plain folks eating with the "Prols"? I don't know, but whatever, while Mo had decent Clam Chowder, I personally didn't think it was all that great. So, sorry, anyone who has read this far thinking this is a food blog (which it in no way is), no recipe and shot of the dish as it was served (I had it in a bread bowl, maybe that was the problem). The next time I go to Mo's I think I'll try something other than the Clam Chowder. I suspect they have fresh seafood.


I was reminded of this last thought as we left Mo's. We passed by an obviously working fishing dock with all the gear used by full-time professional fishermen. It served as a reminder to me that Florence, like many Oregon Coastal towns is not just a "tourist" town. It also still has a small commercial fishing fleet. How much longer they are going to be able to hang in there with the fuel costs, declining fish numbers due to factory ships, and environmental degradation, is anyone's guess. My hope, however, is that they will follow the old "Oregon saying" (something like an old Flight Line saying, I suppose, only it is normally phrased in language far more refined) referred to above: "Never Give and Inch!"